Call surfing sick
In this post I would like to show you one of my last days in Santa Cruz. 2 days after I have actually written an e-mail to my close friend about it, so I don’t have to describe it again.
“Another days, another magic memories. 2 days ago I decided to ‘call sick’ and just don’t give a shit for whole day. We went with a crew to pleasure point. I love this place, I have to take you there, it’s like a little heaven. Everything is clean, people are beautiful, like in movies and the weather was just perfect.
I had a chance to surf there once, about a month ago – on 38, but it was high tide and quit windy. The day before yesterday we went to 38 first, I could finally feel rocky bottom (low tide, but not too much! – when it’s too low, it’s very dangerous) and it wasn’t crowded at all. Than more people showed up and there wasn’t any swell for 10-15 minutes… Yeah, summer time… In the distance I saw many surfers on Pleasure Point. I was so jealous that I convinced Jason to paddle there (about 10 minutes).
Did i ever tell you that the ocean is different everyday? When I go to surf Cowells each time I learn it from the beginning and conditions might change from time to time. This is NOTHING.
Here, on Pleasure everything is changing constantly. Waves from all sides, the peak (the point you wanna be in) is always on different spot, it’s hardcore!! I managed to catch maybe 2 waves, but very strong and stand up too slowly. And fall downs were pretty dangerous because it was very shallow. I get why Jason didn’t want to take me there. But I’m glad we went! On our way back suddenly I was inside of swell, I didn’t catch any waves, just watched. Ocean is very scary and in the same time truly beautiful.
We came back to 38 and everything has changed again. Waves got bigger and it started to be glassy – which means no wind and the surface of ocean was smooth, very nice. I was exhausted so we got out and chilled on the beach. We have met my friends from last party (small world, lol) and suddenly I got myself a ticket to a Giant’s Game! Came back home, quick shower and I’m already in the car going to San Francisco! Crazy day!
The stadion was enormous, stunning, full of people and lights. Everyone was wearing Giants clothes (I borrowed a hoodie), so excited, loud, lot of food, beers, so american! I even learned the baseball rules!
Ticket – $12 , beer $12 , hot dog $8, emotions – priceless. It was kind of boring, but there was always something going on on the screen – they chose a pair to kiss, zoom on dancing people, singing songs, just like in the movies! Too bad they lost, though. But it was a good experience!
You know, this state is just so magical, I’m lucky I’m in California. I mean there is so much to do in and around Santa Cruz: so many beautiful bitches, Red Woods, Mountains, San Francisco behind the corner. It’s perfect. Wanna come?
I’m just sitting in the van waiting for the sunrise at Big Sur, but can’t see anything because of big fog. I probably won’t take any nice pictures. Daria, Jason and Nicole are snoring on the backseat. ”
– 09/01/2016 6:30 a.m. Big Sur. The pictures went ok. You can see it in Sami ocenicie w NEXT POST. In the meantime check those out: